Far West Texas - who could have known?

I apologize for the long lapse since my last post. But, a frozen water pipe and a monumental basement flood forced my return to the farm to coordinate the repairs. During the time I was back, I couldn't bring myself to add to the blog. Dealing with the insurance adjusters and mold remediation people was all consuming and frankly, very depressing. While nothing irreplaceable was lost and it was all just stuff, the tedium of cataloging each item left me with no desire to write. However, I am back with Sarah and the  Mary Joan.

This actually is beginning to look pretty good. 

After leaving Big Bend National Park, Sarah and I visited the town of Terlingua just west of the park. A dusty, former ghost town, it is now an eclectic amalgamation of free-spirited individuals. There are a couple river rafting guides and desert ATV tour guides along with a few bars, a gas station and two grocery stores only one of which was open the few days we were there. 

Terlinqua "Ghost Town"

We see many old aluminum trailers left to decay, so sad.

We were told by someone we met in the hot springs at the park that it would be possible to just boondock anywhere in the old ghost town. However, the sign welcoming us asked that we not park our RV overnight. As we were leaving 'town' Sarah saw an old Airstream motor-home and another trailer in a small dusty parking area. There appeared to be an empty RV utility post next to the trailer and a small box trailer a short distance away. We approached the man next to the box trailer (which we found out later he was living in) and asked if we could park there for a couple nights. He said we should talk to the owner, Jack, who was just down the hill. Jack told us the spot was available and didn't we see the sign advertising his RV park. Somehow we had missed that. It was hand-painted on a small sign that also advertised his veterinary practice and his wife's gift/antique shop. But, we were happy to have a spot within walking distance of the Starlight Theater Restaurant where we planned Sarah's birthday dinner. 

The RV park in downtown Terlingua Ghost Town

While hiking in Big Bend National Park the previous day, we met a couple from Terlingua, who upon learning we would be there to celebrate Sarah's birthday, invited us to their home for margaritas and to watch the sunset. Dan and Tana gave us excellent directions to their home, which when we had settled into our camping spot we could easily see about a quarter mile away just across the highway. Dan and his wife Tana made us feel welcome and at ease in their beautiful home looking out over the desert landscape with a perfect view of the Chicos mountains to the east. Here we learned that in Terlingua, one looks to the east to watch the sunset. The glow of the setting sun reflected from the mountains is different everyday, but it is always beautiful.

Looking east at sunset from Terlinqua toward the Chicos mountains in Big Bend National Park
The view from Dan and Tana's

Before leaving, we inquired as to where would be the best place to watch the football playoff game the next evening. They told us that we would not be happy at any of the bars, since there would be a lot of smoke (smoking is still allowed in bars in Texas).  They said we should return for dinner and watch the game with them. We agreed only on the condition that we cook and bring dinner. 

When we arrived at the Starlight, I observed a small group at the bar that were engaged in friendly and animated conversation. What struck me was not only how different their appearances were from each other,  a cowboy, new-age hippie type, business suited straight, cocktail waitress wannabe pin-up and resurrected goth-girl, but also how they defied the stereotype of their appearance with their choice of beverages. The cowboy was drinking a white wine, the business suite some brightly colored concoction reminiscent of a tequila sunrise and the hippie was drinking a martini. The women had just arrived, so I didn't want to stare to see what they were drinking. Assuming their worldviews and political opinions were as disparate as their stereotypes, it was hard to believe I was in Texas, much less West Texas. It made me wonder if the euphemism, gone to Texas, still meant hiding out from the law or other entrapment. This is a place where you don't ask questions about people's past or appearances.  

The Starlight Theatre

The next day we rejoined Dan and Tana for another wonderful evening. We learned that Dan had been an successful National Park Service Ranger for many years and his wife Tana had taught in a private school. Because of his connections, Dan had the opportunity to meet celebrities and dignitaries in the park at which he served. His stories about his experiences were entertaining and revealing. 

On our last day in Terlingua we joined Far Flung river expeditions for a day floating the Rio Grande. Despite the river being quite low, it was still possible to float though Colorado Canyon. We had a wonderful guide, Erika, whose energetic lectures on geology, anthropology and history were very informative and entertaining. Far Flung allowed us to boondock in their parking lot the night before and after our river float. This made it very convenient for us.

Erika, our guide, was very enthusiastic and informative.

Colorado Canyon, Rio Grande River

Just west of Terlinqua is Big Bend Ranch State Park. The roads are gravel and though well kept have a lot of wash board in some places making the 20 mile trip into the park quite slow while towing the Mary Joan. The camping areas we found were primitive and the road into first one we came to didn't look too friendly for the trailer. However, the next one turned out to be a diamond in the rough. The quarter mile lane from the main road to the campsite was narrow and we had to stop to trim the branches of the shrubs that threatened to scratch the skin of the Mary Joan. 

Trimming branches and prickly pear cactus at the cattle guard

The campsite itself was at the base of a windmill that was still supplying water to the tank adjacent to the parking area. The campsites we found were designed for single occupancy. Due to the miles separating one from another, this produced a wonderful sense of privacy and isolation. A hiking trailhead was at our campsite and we enjoyed a two hour trek into the hills behind us. We saw deer and lots of birds.

Our campsite in Big Bend Ranch State Park (the Mary Joan is in the lower right)

Sarah has never lost her love of climbing

Sunset at our camp site in Big Bend Ranch State Park

We have both been surprised by the beauty of West Texas. Neither of us had ever imagined the diversity of shapes and colors to be found here. The people we have met are open and welcoming. They are proud to show us their home and share it with us. We cannot wait to continue exploring this area.

It was while leaving the park and driving to the town of Marfa, that I got the call that our basement was ruined.  Once in Marfa, Sarah and I settled in at the Tumble In campground. We decided that Sarah should stay with Dot, the cat, while I went home. Sarah could not have been 'stranded' in a better place. 

Stay tuned to find out why.

Big Bend National Park and West Texas

Although the distance from Seminole Canyon to Great Bend National Park is only 200 miles, we drove slowly to enjoy the magnificent scenery along the way. Towns and fuel stations are few and far between in West Texas. When we traveled to Alaska, we carried extra fuel in two five gallon containers. But, by sticking to our rule of always filling up whenever we had 1/4 of a tank or less left, we never had to use our reserve cans. So, we felt safe going without the spare canisters. That rule almost let us run out of fuel in West Texas. With a steady altitude gain and a head wind, a quarter of a tank is not enough to reach the next fuel stop. We didn't run out, but it was close. 

Confluence of the Pecos and Rio Grande (deer on the river's edge)

We drove west on US 90 until we reached US 385 where, at Marathon, a small town just north of Big Bend National Park, we turn south to enter the park. Unlike most national parks we have visited, this one has very little tourist development surrounding it. There are no McDonalds or Subways to be found here, let alone a water slide or miniature golf. 

As we drove south on US 385 the Chisos Mountains rose before us in magical purple splendor. Sarah and I each commented that we had no idea Texas had such majestic mountains. Planning to spend about a week in the park, I wanted to divide our stay between the three campgrounds, Chisos Basin in the center of the park, Rio Grande Village in the southeast and Cottonwood in the southwest. But, the ranger at the check-in station told us our rig was too big for Chisos Basin so we drove south to Rio Grande Village. At Rio Grande Village we had the choice of either a dry camping or full hookup campground. Sarah opted for full hookup. While the dry camping area was more scenic, we enjoyed the convenience of having electricity because we could use our electric heater rather than propane. The severe cold that had gripped the rest of the country also made itself felt way down in Texas. The locals were definitely complaining. We just enjoyed the 45 degree weather knowing what it was like at home.

Our first  Rio Grande overlook

Big Bend National Park encompasses 801,163 acres, some of the highest peaks in Texas and a wonderful hot spring right on the Rio Grande River. It is the 15th largest National Park. 

Arriving late in the afternoon, we took a short hike into Boquillas Canyon and got our first close up look at the Rio Grande. It was much more beautiful than I had imagined. I thought it would be a dark brown and slow moving creek. Instead, I found an aquamarine vibrant appearing river. 

Rio Grande at Big Bend National Park

Knowing that there are black bear and mountain lions here, Sarah and I were on the road before dawn to drive the Old Ore Road in hopes of catching a glimpse of one or the other. The road is about 26 miles long and only suitable for high clearance four wheel drive vehicles. We didn't see any large mammals, but we saw lots of birds and had the opportunity to hike into deep canyons and explore the abandoned ranches and homesteads along the way. The next day we drove the 45 mile River Road that traverses the southern edge of the park parallel to the Rio Grande River. This road also demands the use of a high clearance 4WD vehicle. These park roads are one lane with nasty thorn bearing vegetation encroaching on them. Our poor tow vehicle suffered a lot of scratches from these vicious plants. When I mentioned this to one of the rangers, she said they call these scratches "desert pinstripes". With any luck they can be buffed out.

Sarah climbing to the tijana

Chisos Mountains from River Road, Great Bend National Park

Quicksilver (mercury) mining operation. The men who worked here in the early 20th century lived to be about 30 years old due to mercury poisoning.

The Rio Grande, a wild and scenic river

On the third day in the park the weather warmed a little so we decided to hike the Lost Mine Trail. Starting just above Chisos Basin the trail climbs for two and a half miles gaining 1,100 feet of altitude to arrive at 7,650 feet to awe inspiring views of the surrounding desert. We both delighted in the beautiful flora that is part of the ecosystem of this high desert. A lush oak, juniper and sumac forest provides cover for deer, bear and the ever elusive mountain lion. After the climb we rewarded ourselves with a glass of wine at the Chisos Basin Mountain Lodge followed by a welcomed soak in the hot springs near our campground.

Deer on the Lost Mine Trail

Sarah spotted this impressive tarantula

Summit of Lost Mine Trail, Chisos Mountains 

Hot spring on the Rio Grande

The next day we drove across the sloping desert to the southeast of the Chisos Mountains to hike the Pine Canyon trail. The trail starts in the Chihuahuan desert and ascends about 1,000 feet through a riparian forest to the base of an outwash. It was interesting to see the change in vegetation as we gained altitude.

Tomorrow is Sarah's birthday. Our plan is to move the Mary Joan to Terlingua, a resurrected ghost town just west of Big Bend National Park. We have been invited to join Dan and Tanna at their home for margaritas at sunset. We met this wonderful couple while hiking the Lost Mine Trail. Dan is a retired National Parks Ranger and supervisor who has built a beautiful winter home here in the desert.

Glorious sunset

Stay tuned.